Other Variations of Bi-Coloured Scales Design

It has been quite a long time since my last post and it's October now.  I meant to post this sooner, actually I have started this post at the beginning of July but I have been a bit busy..... well, no excuse.  Here is another variation of of bi-coloured scales design.

This is a very simple design with a single colour for both stitching paths and a contrasting colour at the mid-point and last of the section.  However, if you stich as if it's a good old bi-coloured scales design and switch the colour of the thread at the mid-point and switch back to the original one and continue stitching until the section is filled with stiches except for the last row of the stitch for which you switch to the contrasting colour again, your thimble appears like below:

The difference of the designs between top photo and the above design diagram comes from the way the threads layer each other.  When you make a new row of stitches, the thread travels on the thimble body and it layers on the existing thread(s) and form the design.  And so, the contrasting colour at the mid-point does not appear fully as the design of the thimble does in the photo because the latter half of the threads in the original colour lay on the thread of the contrasting colour.

Now I am going to explain how to stitch the thimble in the photo.  Start stitching as usual and stop one stitch before you got to the mid-point and finish the thread.  You have to know how many stitches you make in one section so that you will know when to stop stitching for this design: 
= "total number of the stitches in one section" / 2 - "1 stitch"
In the diagram above, it requires total 20 stitches to fill one section so I made nine stitches. 20 devided by 2 and minus 1 makes 9.

Start a new thread leaving a space for just one stich.

Continue stitching until all are filled with stitches but a tiny space for the last stich.  You are going to make the same number of the stitches for the second half of the section and it automatically give you a space for one stitch.   In the diagram above, I made another nine stitches.  There are four spaces left in two sections (two stitching paths), 2 at the mid-point and another two at the last.  

Start a new thread in the contrasting colour and start stitching for all four spaces and you will get your new thimble now.  You can compare the above diagram with the top one and see in the top diagram the latter half of the blue threads covers the half of the first yellow thread and it makes a big difference on the finished thimble.

Some of you may wonder if you could make the same design by having four stitching paths in the same colour with a contrasting colour for the last stich, instead.  The answer is YES.  Well, sort of, not totally the same but quite similar.

See?  It looks quite similar, but not THE same.  However, it does not much of a difference.  The effect is (almost) the same. 
This is not bi- but quad-coloured scales though all four sections are in the identical colour scheme.  In this way you stich four stitching paths in the same colour and switch the colour just for the last stitch.  It's certainly more easier than stich the design as bi-coloured scales. 

However, stitching as bi-coloured scales and quad-coloured scales have a big difference.  Firstly you only have two working threads at one time for bi-coloured, while four for quad-coloured.  Having four is not a big deal, but how about eight, or perhaps sixteen?

The above diagram is a quad-coloured scales with the technique of stitching the mid- and last stitches lastly.  You can of course stitch this as oct-coloured, I mean, 8 section design period.  The design period is the number of the sections where the thread travels from the top to bottom and then up to the top again.  In this design the tread travels total eight sections, that is, 8 section design period.  I believe I have posted about the design period and design repeat in the past.  Having eight working threads is not very easy to handle especially all are in the same colour because you have to make track of which stitching path you are working with all the time, and more importantly, what you are making is a ring sized object.  Working on the ring sized object with eight threads hanging is NOT easy at all,I can tell you.

-------

Lastly, I would like to thank you all who bought my "First Thimble Kit" via Etsy.  If you are interested in the kit, there is a link to my Etsy shop on the right column.  I am sorry but at the moment I cannot ship it to EU countries through Etsy due to their new duty declaration system.  If any of you who lives in the EU countries and would like to buy the kit, please kindly contact me.  My profile page has my email address. 

 

Bi-Coloured Scales Design Variations

 

I mean to post at least twice monthly but it has already been more than a month since my last post.  Time flies indeed.

I talked about the monotonous work when making bi-coloured scales design thimbles in my last post and the magic solution is colour variation.  It does not necessarily mean to encourage you to buy new thread in different colours but the colour placement on the designs.

Here is one example.  When you got to the half point of the section when stitching the bi-coloured scales, just switch the colours for one round. 

Then switch back to the original colours and keep going until finished.  It's just one round of stiches but it makes a big difference as shown below.

Or you switch the colours altogether from the halfway point.  Your thimble will look completely different from the bi-coloured scales, as you see below.

Perhaps you may want to try stripes.  Add two stitches in the colour for the second stitching path when stiching the last part of the first path and your thimble will look like this.

Or stripes in both paths and it looks rather different.

From here the design called Blue Wave (Seikaiha, in Japanese) but it's one of the variations of bi-coloured scales.  It's actually bi-coloured scales with stripes.

As before you can make stripes in both stitching paths and ...

Until now I chose the different colours for two stitching paths but if you choose a single colour for both, it looks like this...

I am thinking to assemble a new kit to sell at my Etsy Shop, so that the people who are new to thimble making can still working on the thimbles after "Your First Thimble Kit".  It will be a kit with a few of the finished thimble bases with two round of stitches done, a needle, and threads.  What do you think of the idea?

In any case, please keep counting the number of the stitches in one section and try to make the same number of stitches every time you make thimbles.  It will help you to explore new designs.  The stripes designs above require the exact number of the stitches to make even stripes, though uneven stripes are fun, too.  However, there are designs which have to be exact and I will show them in my next post, hopefully soon. 

Thimble Design Diagram Finally Completed

 

Finally I finished the design diagram I have been working on.  This is the diagram of the thimble I posted early last month.  The thimble itself is on the book I checked out from the library and following the instruction I was able to finish it relatively easily.  However, drawing the design diagram was a completely different story.

I am not good at digital things.  I wanted to try some fancy drawing software but I ended up with good old Paint.  I drew the diamond grid pattern and filled each cells with colours.  It was a tedious work and took very long to finish but what it took me so long was for me to understand the design itself.

I made the thimble so I should have understood how to stitch to form the design but I did not.  It was a very good experience for me to fully understand the design.

As you enlarge the above diagram, you can see how the stitching threads travel and which travels on (or beneath) which threads.  Most of the design diagram on the books, if not all, are just rectangle divided by vertical and  diagonal lines and colour-blocked.  You cannot see how the threads layer each other.

I am now working on the step by step diagrams.  Actually I made copies of the image while working and hopefully I could finish them up sooner so that you could stitch the thimble, too.

Lastly, it's the same image but I will show you the finished thimble here again.  I am sorry but I placed it upside down in the photo and you may have a little difficulty to compare it with the design diagram to understand how to stitch.

 

Design Memo -- Harlequin (or nine-patch diamonds)

I have received requests now and then for the design interpretation for certain designs, mostly advanced ones, and while I do not wish to encourage you to try the new designs while you are still not ready for it by posting advanced design here, it's not very practical for me to answer to the requesters by sending an e-mail one by one and some cases the requester did not provide me with the way to contact them by leaving a comment anonymously without the link to their e-mail addresses or blog posts/web pages.  So I have decided to give you a design memo of the most requested one today.  Although I freely share the design memo with you, it is still my intellectual property and I would like you to respect it.  It is not my intention to imply that any one of you would abuse it, but I just wanted to make a statement so that no misunderstanding would arise at later date, is all.  You would be horrified to know how serious the copyright infringements are on the web.  Having said that, here we go: 

Skill Level:  Advanced
Required technique(s):  Forward stitch, back stitch, and weaving
Number of stitching path(s):  Two and then later becomes four
Design period:  Two sections
Design repeat:  Two sections
Number of round(s):  Single
Number of colour(s) used:  Four

This design is a kind of my original.  The reason why I affixed "a kind of" before "my original" is I cannot be certain that anyone had ever made it before I did but I stitched the design without referring anything, so this is "a kind of" my original.  I call it "Harlequin" because it reminds me of Agatha Christie's "Mysterious Mr Quinn" which based on the Italian masked character, Harlequin. 

The design consists of the centre part of nine-patch diamonds and framing and you have to determine before you start stitching how many stitches you are going to make in one section.

My framing takes six stitches so subtract six from the number of the stitches in one section and the reminder is the number of stitches you are going to stitch for the centre nine-patch diamonds.  It may not be very convenient number for you to form nine-patch so you have to adjust it by:

1) Adding or taking a stitch or two from the total number of the stitches of the section.  Although this is easiest, you may have some difficulty to pack extra two stitches in a section, especially the section is already too packed to start with. 

2) Changing the number of the sections i.e. narrowing/widening the section.  Please note that the number of the sections has to be an even number as "rounding" will not work for the design.  Also please note that the number of the sections will affect the shape of the diamonds, i.e. the more sections, the skinnier the diamonds become.

3) Making the ring size smaller/bigger/shorter/taller, possibly in conjunction with changing the number of sections.  Although It involves most tedious work, you get the best result.  However, if your thimble has to be in the specific size, then it's not an option for you.

Start stitching with two paths and weave 3x3 as you go to form nine-patch's.  As this is nine-patch diamonds, the colour of the second stitching path appears at the four corners and centre small diamonds, so make sure to stitch with the right colour for each path.

Then start stitching the framing commencing from both sides of the portion you have already stitched, therefore the number of your stitching paths now becomes four, stitching alternatively and all in the same colour.  Stitch a row in the first path with back stitch starting from the left side of the first path of the diamonds, then in the same way stitch the third path, then the second path with forward stitch starting from the right side followed by fourth path.  Thread the different colour and stitch the second row in the same fashion, and for the final third row, change back to the colour you used for the first row.

As I stitch the diamonds portion all by forward stitches so the threads lay slanted in the top and bottom triangles however, if you opted for back stitches, back-to-back with forward stitches, then it appears as V-shaped. 

Wish you happy stitching!