They are medium sized pincushions. I have already made rings months ago, but didn't come around to make cushion parts (the process I do not care very much) but Helen's challenge gave me a reason to finish them. Of course making these small (they are medium sized but still small, as you can suppose) cushions doesn't make any dent in my stash though, it's a start.
Meri asked me something about the previous post of number of stitches. I am sorry I didn't make myself clear and here is an additional explanation:
The number of the stitches you make in one section of course depends on the size of the ring, number of the sections you are having, and the size of the thread you use. What I was trying to say is when you compare with the two identical sized rings stitched with the same thread, the number of the over all stitches varied depending on the number of the sections. The less sections (wider sections), the sharper the angle of the thread, the less over all stitches because an actual coverage of the thread becomes wider at the middle of the ring body
As for the recommended size of perle cotton for thimbles, I am sorry but I have no idea. As a matter of fact I have not ever seen any perle cotton other than size 5. In Japan there are not many choice where embroidery floss is concerned; there are size 25(6-strand floss) and size 5 and that's all. Of course there are Japanese embroidery silk floss, sashiko cotton, kogin cotton, temari thread, and other "stitching" thread (manufacturer called them so, not me) available, but no perle cotton. All I can say is the thread size should match the size of the ring. Size 5 perle cotton is definitely too big for a thimble. On the other hand you can use one strand of size 25 embroidery floss (closely the same size as silk hand sewing size 9) for a napkin ring if you like. It takes long time to finish it but you can make more delicate and intricate design than the one made with bigger thread.
Debi suggested on the number of stitches post to include two pictures to show how there is a greater distance across the thread when the angle is sharper. (Debi, I now understand what you meant) It's a great idea however, sadly, as you have all witnessed, my drawing using Paint is not up to the task. Perhaps I can get better result by hand drawing and scanning afterward. With these two pictures, it will make more sense easily. Thank you, Debi
Sidhepro mentioned the other day when she uploaded her "share your thimbles" photo, that her edges were not up to her expectation, that her down stroke was better than upstroke and so the bottom edge ended up the better stitch alignment. How you insert your needle decides how your stitch looks (and so does how you pull the thread, too) so if you are happy with your down stroke, or upstroke for that matter, more than the other, why don't you hold your ring upside down when you are doing less favored edge? Hold it upside down, insert the needle tip, turn it to the correct side up, then pull the thread. However, I do not like to do so, because it makes threads prone to all tangled up, especially you use more than four, but it's my personal opinion. Many people do this way, so why don't you, too?
I am very slow to respond to comments left but I read all. When I didn't make myself really clear in my "how I do" or you have a question, or just say hello, please don't hesitate to leave a comment. I love it when people respond to me :)